Driving under attack today was a total blast! – coming up to roadblocks with guys with guns, blocked in by multiple cars, being shot at, IEDs at the roadside (real explosions) and having to escape all this – often by driving backwards very fast and around obstacles. Explosions at the end of the day were a bit of a let down. Not very big and no fire in the car (which they often get). All in all a good day though.

Oh, and I got to drive both an armoured Suburban AND a big armoured Humvee! Way cool. Damn those are heavy hulking things to drive.

I spent most of today peeling out, spinning out, swerving, and braking at top speed and in water and on curves and off road in the mud and all of the above in reverse and from the passenger seat when my driver “died” in the middle of it all. Oh, and all of this with and without ABS brakes as well. Very very fun! Very fun! We were driving Crown Vics (are you familiar with those? Ford Crown Victoria – standard cop car in the US for years). Pretty powerful, with good pickup. Forgot to ask what the engines were or what special tuning they’ve got. Will find out tomorrow. Also, they must go through tires really quick…

Tomorrow is ramming and driving while actually being attacked. We will also be blowing stuff up (including a car, apparently)! Can’t wait. We shoot stuff on Wednesday. Five different weapons – Sig Sauer, Beretta, Glock, AK-47, and I think she said a .50 caliber (M2 or Browning). This totally rocks.

We’ve got folks going to Iraq, Afghanistan, Pakistan and the Sudan. Have folks from Dept of State doing development economics, education, information, technology, and some folks from USAID (equivalent to AusAID – development), Dept of Agriculture (USDA) and security contractors. Also a couple of guys from the Inspector General’s office who investigate fraud and corruption. Very interesting group. Having lots of great conversations and getting great advice and information about the various posts and types of activities people are doing. Every day I feel more and more like this is definitely the world I belong in!

Just returned from dinner where we all shared little interesting anecdotes from our lives. K biked 2000 kilometres from Southern China to Saigon. M was chased by a police helicopter mistaking him for a carjacker with a similar vehicle. J won a Britney Spears karaoke video contest in a bar in Seoul, Korea. K went on a 2-week camel holiday into the Sahara with a traditional Tourag beduoin guide. H found his wife in a convent and converted her shortly before she took her vows. J and friends took a ride from strangers late at night, drunk, on their first night in Moscow. A, at the age of 14, stole his parents’ station wagon from the garage and took it for a joy ride on Lakeshore Drive in Chicago at 2.30 in the morning and still hasn’t told them. T carried drunken senior officers back to base over his shoulders just before curfew on a base in Korea. Just a few of the stories – great people!

New York City is what I missed the most about America when I was overseas. This weekend I zoomed up there on an early Saturday morning bus and spent the day walking probably close to 15 kilometres from Penn Station to the MOMA (all the favourites from Picasso, Rothko, Rauschenberg, Johns to Monet’s Waterlilies and an exhibit on the Bauhaus movement)  to the Cooper Hewitt Design Museum (winners of design awards from the past decade) to the Guggenheim (all Kandinsky) to Columbus Circle and Lincoln Center and the Metropolitan Opera where I say La Nozze di Figaro, then back down Broadway to Times Square and dinner and onto another bus at Port Authority at 3.45a back to DC.

I love Manhattan! I missed some of my regular haunts, like St Marks Place in the East Village and Tribeca and the World Trade Center, but some is better than none before I head to Iraq. God bless New York – nothing like it in the world!

Too Hot to Handel: The Gospel Messiah

Wow! Imagine Handel’s Messiah & add a Hammond B3 organ, a drum kit, and some very funky, jazzy, scat, blues, R&B arrangements. You can’t. I guarantee you that you cannot imagine it. But it was an absolute blast. The Strathmore performing arts center here in Bethesda, Maryland was just rocking. I haven’t been this entertained by a performance in ages! It was the Baltimore Symphony Orchestra, joined by the Baltimore City College High School Choir (and some alumnae/i from that choir). Can’t begin to describe it. It was just plain fun! Great memory to have before I leave.

So today was 8000 years of Iraqi political history in 1 day! Whew! What a messy, messy history with so many tribes and invasions and empires and migrations and internal battles within the Sunni, Shi’a and Kurdish communities (the Kurds even speak two separate languages!). I don’t know how they manage to even be this close to being able to actually have an election in Iraq, nevermind not completely killing each other. It’s absolutely fascinating. My hungry mind is just dying to read and read and read on this. I don’t have enough time in the day.

To give you a little idea of the insanity, I will outline the political parties represented in the current parliament. Keep in mind that there are about 33 million people in Iraq compared to 22 in Australia, 61 in UK, and 308 in the US – each of which have mainly two parties with a few others like Green or Libertarian. I don’t know about Australia, but often people in the US complain that two parties isn’t enough to adequately represent the diversity of the population. All I can say, after today, is be careful what you pray for.

The Iraqi National Assembly has 266 seats for the following parties and alliances, many of which are made up of a combination of other political parties or coalitions of coalitions:

United Iraqi Alliance (128 seats, 5 parties) – The ruling Shi’a coalition includes the following groups: SIIS, Al-Da’wa, Muqtada al-Sadr’s faction, the National Independent Cadres and Elites party, and Fadila.

Democratic Patriotic Alliance of Kurdistan (53 seats, 9+ parties) – Includes Kurdistan Democratic Party of Iraq (KDP), Patriotic Union of Kurdistan (PUK), Kurdistan Communist Party, Kurdistan Democratic Socialist Party, Kurdistan Democratic National Party, Democratic Batih-Nahrain Party, Assyrian Patriotic Party, Chaldean Democratic Union, Kurdistan Toilers’ Party and “sever smaller parties including at least one Turkoman party” (that would be folks from Turkmenistan, not Turkey, though similar heritage).

Kurdistan Islamic Union (5 seats, 1 party) – left the alliance above

Iraqi Accordance Front (44 seats, 3 parties) – Sunni coalition comprised of the General Council for the People of Iraq, Iraqi Islamic Party, Iraqi National Dialogue Council

Iraqi National Dialogue Front (11 seats, 5 parties) – Coalition comprised of Iraqi National Front, National Front for a Free and United Iraq, Iraqi Christian Democratic Party, Democratic Arab Front, Sons of Iraq Movement

Iraqi National List (25 seats, 16 parties) – Coalition comprised of Iraqi Communist Party, Assembly of Independent Democrats, People’s Union, Al-Qasimy Democratic Assembly, Iraqi Republican Group, Arab Socialist Movement, Independent Democratic Gathering, Iraq National Accord, League of Iraqi Turkmen Lords and Tribes, Alfurat Al Awsat Assemblage, The Iraqis, Loyalty For Iraq Coalition, Independent Iraqi Alliance, Independent Iraqi Sheikhs Council, The National List, Al-Ahrar

Pretty crazy, huh? I reckon the “League of Iraqi Turkmen Lords and Tribes” is my favourite. I think I’m really going to have to know a bit about most of these for my work. Crap. My head is spinning after today…

First day of class in FT 610 – Iraq Familiarisation. There are nine of us in the class. Three career US Govt guys (1 FBI and 2 State Dept security) and they are all the Uncle Grumbles type – no smiles. There’s a telecommunications guy who is going to put up satellites all over the country and he’s probably the liveliest of the bunch. Fun and friendly. There’s my buddy I did my HR intake stuff with and who’s been in Iraq since the invasion doing tactical ops (in charge of managing stuff if there is an attack on the embassy). Very nice guy though a bit quiet. There’s a guy I met last week from NEA/SCA PD (Near East Asia/South and Central Asia Public Diplomacy) who is going straight to the PRT (Provincial Reconstruction Team) in Erbil. And three FSNs (foreign service nationals) – non-Americans working at other embassies who’ve been given an opportunity to work for the US in Iraq. Two security guys and a woman who will be doing billeting.

Main instructor is classic ex-Army white guy with a Southern drawl. Friendly and nice in front of the class, but can definitely see tough guy come out here and there. Want to stay on his good side. Our Arabic teacher who did the afternoon session is another cutie (just like my Arabic teacher in Canberra whom I had a dangerous crush on) – what’s up with that? Hmmm…

We did a little bit of everything we will be expanding on later this week – Iraq history, US policy, admnistrative stuff (saw pictures of the embassy and reviewed transit procedures and benefits), Iraqi culture (e.g. never refuse tea – very bad manners), and Arabic language. And I got three more books to carry. I’m going to have to ship more stuff. This is getting out of control. Too much to do now before I leave.

What a fabulous weekend! It felt like a modern day version of a Victorian era gentleman’s house party (like the ones in all the Jane Austen films I’ve been watching with Jody for the past few weeks). Large beautiful home on a gorgeous estate of rolling hills, complete with stables and horses and fireplaces and dogs and friends and neighbors and employees dropping by. Jaralyn is one of my sister’s oldest friends. Kevin is her husband. Juli is a working student who helps Jaralyn train horses and teach dressage. Juli lives in Bethesda, MD which is where I’m staying. (Don’t forget you can click on the pictures for larger views.)

Juli and I leave Bethesda at 7am and head out to the farm in the cold and nearly freezing rain. We arrive at the farm about 30 minutes later and start feeding the seven horses and one pony that are in the barn (Darius, Finnikin, Brio, Fhinland, Rothko, Magnum, Tango, and Gemma). Everybody is hungry and some of the horses at the far end bang on their stalls telling us to “hurry it up!” As I pass out flakes of hay and buckets of granola I’m thrilled to be with these wonderful animals. The smells and the sounds of snorting and tails swishing and heads shaking are familiar and nostalgic. When I was in junior high school I had a horse for a while and spent a great deal of time at the Dana Hall stables in Wellesley. I competed, mostly jumping, and have the ribbons to show for it somewhere. I haven’t ridden much as an adult, but have always longed for the time when I can do so again. I’m still not quite awake, and it is really cold. But I’m already certain it is going to be a great day.

It is a gorgeous new barn with beautiful honey coloured wood and gorgeous black iron fittings on everything. Lots of natural light and high ceilings with small birds flying about. We then tromp down to the far pasture where “the girls” are (Dhalia and Delilah) – two fillies that Jaralyn and Juli bought on a lark at a horse show a few months back. They are very young – just over a year – and surprising full of energy on this cold rainy morning.

The farmhouse where Jaralyn and Kevin live is big and new and beautiful from the outside, across the grass. But it is not time for visiting yet. We have work to do. Back up to the barn to start warming up the horses. One by one we take them out of their stalls and over to the indoor ring for a little jog. Juli puts them on the lunge rein (very long lead) and has them trot and canter for a few minutes in a circle around her. She let me lunge Gemma, the pony. We quickly develop a pattern. As we bring a horse back, I put their blanket back on while Juli readies the next horse.

In the middle of all this Darwin shows up. It’s his first day on the job and he’s here to muck out the stalls (clean out all the poo). He’s early and friendly, but quiet, and gets right to work. He doesn’t speak much English, only Spanish, but does a very good job and is quick about it. Once the horses are all lunged, we head over the to farmhouse for some coffee and to say hello to Jaralyn and Kevin. The house is brand new and gorgeous – right out of a magazine. There is one main room with heaps of windows containing kitchen, fireplace, sofas and dining table. Their offices are off of this room and the hallway connects to the old house that they lived in before the barn or the ring or this new house were built. Upstairs are more bright rooms (even on this grey day) with beds and bathtubs and more. Juli reports to Jaralyn that she’s pleased with Darwin, the new guy, and discuss the schedule for the day. It’s starting to snow and Jaralyn’s not feeling too well so they talk about canceling the trainings for the afternoon. But still most of the horses need to be ridden.

Shortly we make our way back over to the barn where we start a little routine there too. On this day Juli saddles up the horses and brings them over to the ring. She walks them around a bit to get them warmed up. Then Jaralyn rides them and trains them. It’s not just exercise, but she corrects their gait and trains them on responding to specific commands. Karen comes to take Fhinland back home and Cindy and Gary come to bring Fabrice to stay. I had terrific chats with all of them, as well as some of the other owners and assistants. I learn through the course of the day, mostly from the owners, that some of the horses have been injured or had bad training or both and that Jaralyn has worked wonders with them to bring them back to being ridable for their owners. Through these stories emerged a real “horse whisperer” legend around Jaralyn. I was impressed and amused at the fairy tale nature of it all – the beautiful house, the land, the magical skills that heal and rehabilitate horses and owners alike and the softly falling snow turning the pastures and surrounding woods into a winter wonderland.

I got to groom and prepare the horses for Juli to saddle up and brush them down and blanket them and put them back in their stalls when Jaralyn was done. She even let me ride Darius around for a while to cool him down. That’s when I really realised how long it had been since I’d ridden. I couldn’t remember how to do anything. Thank goodness Darius was a patient horse. But it was obvious he quickly figured out that I didn’t know anything and although he didn’t take advantage of me, it was clear who was boss. I couldn’t control our direction very much and was a bit embarrassed by that. But I quickly got over it and quit pretending that I remembered more than I did and just settled into being a newbie and letting Darius run the show. Below is me with Brio.

By early afternoon I was too cold to stay outside (even in the ring with a blanket on my lap). It has started snowing heavily and as I wasn’t doing much active work, I begged off and went over to the house to sit by the fire and read a book. I promptly fell asleep, waking only periodically when my toes got too hot after being too close to the fire.

Eventually Cindy and Gary came over to the house with soup and bread and Kevin came back from teaching Taekwando and Jaralyn and Juli came over from the barn. We sat down to soup and salad and garlic toast and had a lovely and leisurely late afternoon lunch by the fire in the warm house with huge windows and the snow falling outside and Juli’s dog Rembrandt (an adorable little terrier) and Jaralyn and Kevin’s dog Cayman (a Australian sheepherding dog of some sort) lounging about at our feet.

The rest of the day moved slowly and imperceptibly from one thing into another with a leisure that was not lazy and an amiability that wasn’t tiring. I let myself fall into the relaxing rhythm with pleasure, giving myself permission to not speak or read a magazine article or sit silently by the fire. At one point Juli and Jaralyn and I spent about an hour playing with fonts and designs for a logo for Jaralyn’s business: Finesse Dressage.  At another point Kevin and I got into a long discussion about how to tune the turbo in a BMW to get the equivalent of another 70+ horsepower out of it. Eventually it got dark.

We headed off into the snowy night for dinner at a delightful Asian fusion restaurant called Batik, where we had sampling of dumplings and a variety of delicious laksas and curries. It was the first snow in ages in Maryland and Juli was keen to go sledding. So back at the house, we bundled up and headed out to the hill behind the house. With my hooded sweatshirt cinched up tightly, the rest of the gang instantly took to calling me Kenny (after the kid in South Park). But I managed to get through all the sledding adventures in the dark without dying. Then true to good winter form, we cooked up some real hot chocolate, baked some cookies, and settled down into Kevin’s home theatre to watch a movie on a very large screen in very comfortable sofas.

Whether it was the long week I had, or the exercise and excitement of the horses, or the sledding, or the hot chocolate, or the phenomenal bed, I don’t know, but I slept til 10 am!! When I awoke the house was stunningly brilliant, with bright sun streaming in all the huge windows, but suspiciously quiet. It was a huge rambling house, but I could tell I was all alone in it. I showered and dressed and quietly descended the stairs into that gloriously huge and open and sunny room to look out over the white pastures and fences and woods and horses. Shortly my hosts clattered in the front door, chattering and laughing as they pulled off hats and gloves and scarves and wellingtons and coats and extra sweaters and made for the coffee.

Jaralyn jumped right into preparing a breakfast of pancakes, sausage, eggs, toast and more, which we ate with an air of decided unhurriedness while we debated whether to make the trek across the river to the better sledding hill about a quarter of a mile away. Kevin had the best arguments. First of all, it rarely snowed here and we shouldn’t pass up the opportunity. Secondly, it’s hunting season but they aren’t allowed to hunt on Sundays. So even if the opportunity arose to sled again, the chances of it being on a Sunday were rare and sledding on a Saturday would always run higher risks of danger. But none of us really needed much peer pressure. On went the wellies again and off we went, wading across the river (with dogs under arms) and through the woods and up, up, up the hill where we took turns with the one and only sled and with holding down Cayman, who ran madly after the sled, barking and jumping, and knocked you over before you reached the bottom of the hill.

Juli tried to use a plastic tub to sled on, but try as she might it never quite worked. So instead she made a little snowman while Jaralyn figured out that by taking Cayman IN the sled with her he was less of a complication. Kevin took photographs with his enormous professional camera, while I wiped out so many times that both my wellies filled with snow and my socks were completely soaked by the time we got back to the house.

All in all it was a glorious weekend, topped off by my placing Juli’s little snowman (which I had lovingly carried all the way down the hill, through the woods, across the river and up the hill to the house) at the front door to the house to greet visitors. Of course about 15 minutes later, when Juli and I left the house to head home, Rembrandt ran right out and bit the head off the snowman thinking it was a ball and shook it and chewed and completely demolished it in a explosion of joyful ferocity such as only a dog can exhibit. Ah well, many of the best things in life are fleeting. At least we have memory.

Tomorrow my mind turns from snow and horses and sledding and snowmen to desert and war and Islam and Arabic.

Got my passports back today. The “dip” (diplomatic passport) is twice the number of pages of the regular tourist passport to accommodate all the visas that us foreign service folks end up getting, which usually cover 1-2 pages in the passport instead of just the small stamp you get with a tourist visa (usually 4 can fit on a page). I also had to renew my tourist passport so everything is new. Better pictures this time. They gave me my old passport back, which is very cool, because it is a great chronicle of my journeys of the past 10 years.

Had more great meetings today. I’ve found myself grinning at the oddest times. I can’t believe I’m really going to Iraq. I’m so psyched! And folks keep saying that I will probably have a lot of freedom to do what I think is best and a decent budget. How nice to not be pinching pennies for a change!

One of the senior guys in the ITAO (Iraq Transition Assistance Office) responded to my enquiry about his best advice for me by saying, “Pack light. Play nice. Run fast.” I’m pretty good at the middle one, and I’ve reduced my baggage each of the two times I’ve traveled since leaving Australia and will still do a little more. But the running fast bit could be a bit of a challenge. He gave the example of when the embassy takes rocket and mortar fire, everybody has to run to one of the multiple concrete culverts around the compound. So much for my dress heels – now I understand why my contact there and my cousin and friend were saying to forget the heels and only bring low, flat, sturdy shoes. I thought it was for walking around. But now I get that it is to run better. I also usually wear skirts. Might have to get some trousers… better for running. :)

Off to the stables tomorrow. Hope to have some pictures.

I finally got all my final badges and paperwork sorted today. I’ve got a Department of State badge that gets me into all the buildings. And I’ve got a Department of Defense badge (over at the Pentagon) to get me onto the C-130 military plane and into a variety of buildings and areas in Baghdad – including the commissary for my meals (very important).

I was going to take pictures of the badges for you, but the pictures of me are pretty horrible – as you might expect.

Also got my briefing on my various R&R and leave strategies. During the year they pay for 3 trips/flights to anywhere in the US (including Hawaii, Guam & Virgin Islands), to London, or to anywhere in the world that costs the same or less as getting me to London. A total of up to 33 days of leave available to me. And apparently they really make you take it. I’ve never taken that much leave in my whole life.

Another day of consultations with my new colleagues tomorrow and next week off to my Iraq familiarization class at the “Foreign Service Institute” across the Potomac River in Virginia. Should have my diplomatic and tourist passports back by the end of next week. Counterterrorism class the following week then I leave on Friday night for Amman via Frankfurt. If anyone is going to be in Frankfurt on Saturday the 19th and would like to join me for lunch at the airport during my layover, that would be delightful.

Will be spending Saturday mucking out stalls and saddling and grooming horses on Saturday. My sister’s friend, who has generously let me stay in her house while I’m here, runs a horse farm and so I’ll be out there helping out. It’s been ages since I’ve spent a day with horses. I’m really looking forward to it!

First full day on the job and I am totally digging it. This is going to be a great job. I’ve meet heaps of people today and they are all brilliant, friendly, and thoroughly my peeps. I know it will be different at post because these people are all info geeks like me and at the embassy there will undoubtedly be more of the power driver types and others. But even if there are, I feel like I’ve got a really solid “home team” back here and around the world that I can turn to in times of strife. In fact, I don’t think I’ve ever had a better first day on the job. I’m psyched!

This morning, in front of a US flag, I was sworn in to the Department of State by taking the following oath: “I do solemnly swear that I will support and defend the Constitution of the United States against all enemies, foreign and domestic; that I will bear true faith and allegiance to the same; that I take this obligation freely, without any mental reservation or purpose of evasion; and that I will well and faithfully discharge the duties of the office on which I am about to enter: So help me God.”

Connected with an old friend from graduate school who is based in DC now and is funded by the Gates Foundation to upgrade and revolutionize the library systems in Romania and Ukraine. Putting computers in libraries (there are currently none) and training over 2500 librarians in both countries over the next few years. Fabulous stuff. We had a great dinner and talked about the challenges of working in different cultures and different governments, the long-term effects of communism on general motivation and the infiltrating corrosion of corruption. We talked about ideas for research projects in Iraq and she gave me a few more contacts in Baghdad. At this point, through friends and relatives I’ve got about 25 people I need to catch up with once I get there. :)

Hope you are all having lovely lives today. As for myself I am grinning from ear to ear and grateful for this amazing opportunity I’ve been given. If you are not having a good day yourself, take a ball point pen and draw a dozen smiley faces on your thighs. You will forget about it when you are sleeping and when you get into the shower in the morning you will laugh. I guarantee you.

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