April 2008


30 April 2008
Hippo Bar
Civic, Canberra, ACT

Bun day photos

FYI, regarding the dateline, I’m currently writing from the Hippo Bar on jazz night just after Carmina Burana rehearsal. I’m listening to the crooning Katherine Hunter and her 3-man trio (double bass, keyboard, drums) in a very crowded and lively atmosphere on the second floor overlooking Garema Place. Reminds me a bit of The Enormous Room in Central Square, Cambridge, MA.

Part of the reason for starting this blog was to keep all our friends and family up to date on the doings down here in our Big Australian Adventure. But my other secret reason was to just write. I like writing and it occurred to me that the way to be a better writer is to read more and to write more. So this was a regimen to keep me writing (uneven quality notwithstanding). Up til now I’ve mostly been writing about things I’ve done or seen. The other day I suggested to .b that I could also stretch myself a bit by writing short bits on randomly selected (or suggested) topics like napping or bagpipes or medieval French Romantic Poetry… whatever.

So if you’ve got some topic you’d like to know more about, or would like to test my creative abilities with, feel free to suggest something. I’d been telling .b about the morning tea ritual here at NCEPH (pronounced EN-seff) and how the most popular day is Wednesday because it’s bun day. After a brief pause in our instant messaging exchange, .b came back with a bunch of exclamation points. Bun day?!!? And you are looking for things to write about!??!!

So that’s a very long introduction to what is, in fact, a bit about bun day at NCEPH. For all you citizens of the Commonwealth (of former British colonies, not “independent states”), you might think you can skip the next bit about definitions, but you may regret it. For me, a reasonably educated American, bun, in the singular, was a hairdo – a knob of twisted hair at the nape of the neck, favoured by librarians and not ever considered remotely stylish in my lifetime – with a brief semi-exception in 1977. But Princess Leia’s take on it was such a radical departure from tradition that there’s certainly room for debate on the validity of that as a true bun trend. First, she sported two instead of one. They covered her ears instead of the nape of her neck. And they were significantly larger than usual. However, they resembled, and were frequently referred to as, coffee rolls, which are certainly cousins to the “bun” in the Commonwealth sense. So you can see the challenge.

This would bring us neatly into a discussion of bun day here, except that I feel its necessary to first address the other significant American bun referent – the plural. Well, maybe I shouldn’t go there except to say that I’ve never been particularly fond of that use. There have been few people I’ve known whose submissions deserved quite so cozy a term.

I suppose this essay has gone a bit backwards in some respects. It would be more common in the academic sense to start with the original, Platonically pure and idealistic definition of the bun (the theoretical framework, if you will) and proceed from there through to the degenerate forms at the end. But I came to the whole business of bun day backward myself anyway.

So. The bun. In reality, “bun” is more like a family or genus rather than a species. From what I’ve been able to gather thus far from bun day at NCEPH and my meandering through the baked good sections of local supermarkets, a bun is pretty much any kind of reasonably sweet, baked, cereal product of a cake-like or doughy texture that is not a donut or a muffin. That’s a pretty big range I realize. But that’s what I’ve found. While American exposure to “buns” of the baked variety is probably pretty limited to hot cross buns (which they also have here at Easter), the “buns” I see at bun day are quite large – about the size of a flattened rugby ball, or, I suppose more appropriately, a good sized loaf of Challah bread (though flatter, or, ironically, with the bun-looking bits sheared off the top), with or without nuts and/or fruit (e.g., sultanas – oh, that’s a post for another day), and usually covered with some sort of thick frosting. Thus my academic determination that this range of manifestations makes bun a family or genus and these various incarnations are, in fact, different species.

So now we come to the problem of classification of non-native species. I mean, there is nothing quite like some of the buns I’ve seen here, but others could slip easily into an American continental breakfast (they’d say “brekky” here) buffet without remark – only they would undoubtedly be called “coffee cake.” So are they different species? Or the same species with different common names?

It all boils down to the species concept. The ‘recipe species concept’ (similar to the phylogenetic species concept for you twitchers out there) would suggest that if the ingredients and the procedures for baking are all identical, then the item is in fact the same species and ought to have the same name (in this case, clearly a working group needs to be formed to investigate whether one or the other name should be selected or whether a new name should be proposed). If, however, any of the ingredients or procedures are altered slightly (sultanas instead of raisins, for example) then they are definitely a different species, or genus (e.g., bun vs. coffee cake).

The ‘buffet species concept’, however, (twitchers can think of the biologic species concept) suggests that if two slightly different items can be interchanged at buffet tables around the world without confusion on the part of celebrants, and are accepted simply as variations on a baked goods theme, then they can be considered the same species or genus regardless of the local name, which then makes this a problem for the languages department, not the taxonomists. Which reminds me, some of the buns I’ve seen here are stuffed – sometimes with jam, sometimes custard, sometimes cream (Australian cream – see the previous post on strawberry ricotta pie).

So that’s the bun. What of the “day” part? The first time I saw the NCEPH all-staff email (Subject: Bun day today – 40¢ a slice) I didn’t know what to think. What would you think? Even now, when I see the email each Wednesday, my first thought is some Salvador Dali-esque image of buns with wings flying around over some surreal landscape. But really it’s just a tasty way to break up the morning and get chummy with colleagues in the tea room. Have a cuppa and a chat about the weather or the latest new scheme of the V.C. (that’s the Vice Chancellor – basically the equivalent of the president of an American university – though I’m quite unable to take Ian Chubb seriously because he looks and sounds to me just like Barry Fife, chairman of the Australian Dancing Federation in the movie Strictly Ballroom: check it out). But where was I? Oh, having a cuppa and a chat with colleagues who are otherwise squirreled away in their offices in this rabbit warren of a building.

Morning tea is always an event, but bun day is definitely the day to see and be seen. So start a bun day wherever you are. Grab a couple of tasty doughy sweets and send an email round with the subject: “Bun day today – 40¢ a slice”

For those of you who don’t know, you can add comments by clicking on the “No comments” or “# comments” link right under the title of the post. I’d love to hear your thoughts – on the posts, on anything. – Caryn

25 April 2008
My office at Australian National University
Acton, ACT

Image of Dawn Service at Australian War Memorial (~5.45a)

So today was another cold and dark morning as I rose at 4.30a to make the dawn service at the Australian War Memorial at 5.30a. Today is ANZAC Day – kind of like Memorial Day in the US it honors the armed services, in particular the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps that sacrificed so gloriously at Gallipoli in World War I. The service was a mix of prayers and hymns and eulogies of sorts.

What stood out the most was just the atmosphere – thousands of people in the dark with candles. And the lone bugler playing the “Last Post” – beautiful piece, followed by a moment of silence (well, almost – screeching cockatoos are inevitable at first light).

I’ll get the pictures to you soon.

24 April 2008
My office
Acton, ACt

Fireworks and Chinese Flags
Balloons

I was down at old Parliament House this morning, for the beginnings of the celebrations for the Olympic torch relay. What a scene! There were mobs and mobs of people gathering – I’ve never seen so many Chinese flags! It was almost surreal to see the streets filled with people at that hour, streaming up to Parliament House with flags in the pre-dawn darkness. My pictures didn’t come out very well – I’ll see if I can fix them up later. In addition to a festival atmosphere – people, music, food, etc. there were fireworks at 6am – that’s a first for me: fireworks in the morning. I didn’t actually stay to see the actual torch. I couldn’t stay outside for another 3 hours – too cold.

There is also a balloon festival going on this week, and they were all getting going around the same time. It is very cool to see half a dozen balloons getting blown up from flat stuff on the ground to these giant majestic orbs.

Well, the torch should be underway by now… and I’ve got work to do…

20 April 2008
252 Old South Head Road
Watson’s Bay / Vaucluse, NSW

Bondi Hermitage Hike (this search doesn’t display the images in the order of my journey, but if you click on “IMAGES!!” to the right you’ll get all my photos – IN ORDER. Or follow along on the map:
Google Map – don’t forget to click on Satellite for best view!

Holy mackerel my feet hurt, but wow was it worth it! The past four hours have been truly stupendous. I hope the photos do it justice. So today was the seaside hike. I set off at 8am from Alison’s house facing the sea and walked south along the cliff walk down to Bondi Beach. The general views were spectacular straightaway, but when I came over the rise and saw Diamond Bay I was truly stunned. Not just the majesty of the cove, but all kinds of great little bits walking down and around it – which I didn’t take pictures of because it was so early in the walk I didn’t think my photo card would last if I took pictures at that rate. Perhaps when I bring Slade here in a few months I’ll take photos of those bits.

Just like Manly, incredible views over and over again. As I hiked south and up higher and higher on the cliffs, the weather coming in over the sea from the east got more and more ominous. I passed an soccer field and school on the very edge of the cliff. What a place to go to school. But when the ball is out of bounds, it is really out of bounds. Came across a couple walking about two dozen dogs, with nary a leash in sight. Had to come in from the cliffs a few times and saw some really cool homes – one all glass one: perfect for me. Just as I got my first glimpse of Bondi Beach over to the southwest, I was looking for a particular reserve I saw on my map. I found a way through a gate and up onto the grassy area just as the gale began. While holding my hood way down over my face as I was pelted with rain and wind from the sea, I was right in the middle of a fairway before I realized I was on a golf course. So I scrambled off to the cliff side to get out of the way of the intrepid golfer who were clearly not even thinking about giving up.

But now, I was on the cliff side with no way to get off the course except to go all the way to the end and around. Along the way I found some fascinating tees and an awesome “out of bounds” sign right at the cliff’s edge. When I stepped up to it and looked down, well, let’s just say that you aren’t getting out of that water trap. Finally managed to circle around the perimeter of the course, followed by many strange looks from golfers. And soon enough I was down in Bondi Beach. It’s a smaller beach than I’d imagined, based on the frequency with which I’d heard the name. But it was full of surfers and what a treat to have it so close to a major city.

The walk back up to Rose Bay was long and uneventful from there, but I did enjoy the architecture and vegetation. I was really hurting by now, but I was as far from home as I would get. I’ve got to get ready to go the to airport so I’m going to have to finish this fast. Once I got to Rose Bay, I found my way to another harbour walk – as delightful and full of delightful vistas and surprises as the Manly walk. I took loads of pictures and will be adding them to Flickr and the Google Map. Sorry to bail on the trip back, but I’m just beat and running out of intensely positive adjectives. Oh, but walking up Coolerang street and that area was great – wicked rich houses. Wow!

Okay. If that doesn’t give you a fix for stories and photos, then I don’t know what will. Back to Canberra where they are finishing up the 2020 summit. And Cate Blanchett! What a woman. She was to lead the theme on the arts. She had a baby on Wednesday and I figured she’d bow out, but she turned up with little baby Ignatius! Dedication. Wow. Okay, gotta jet, literally (actually I think I’m on a little prop plane this time) and back to work on Monday.

Hope everyone is have a great weekend!

Cheers,
Caryn

19 April 2008

Circular Quay

Sydney, NSW

 

Manly Scenic Walk photos

Aquarium photos

Darling Harbour photos

Map with all points from Sydney trip - DON’T FORGET TO CLICK SATELLITE VIEW

 

Two days of reporting due to you. Yesterday was Manly. Got up at 7am and took a bird bath in the sink since the hostel was out of towels. Tip: pillow case works reasonably well as a hand towel in a jam. Headed off in the pouring rain. Hiked through the Royal Botanic Gardens and paid a visit to the colony of flying foxes – though they were all fast asleep by now. Got down to Circular Quay around 8am. If you are looking for a great way to get to know a city, grab a coffee and sit at one of the main transit depots during rush hour. In Sydney, Circular Quay (central ferry and train depot) is the place for that. Ferries coming in one after another. People streaming off and away to their jobs. Lots of people. Sydney is definitely a proper city, with a variety of cultures, but some noticeable absences. I find myself feeling relieved somehow whenever I see a black person. It’s fascinating. Maybe not relief, but a sense of homecoming, encountering something familiar that’s been missing.

 

So I headed off on the 9.30 ferry to Manly, and caught a bus up to the top of North Head for a quick meeting with some colleagues. North Head is the bit of land on the north side of the mouth of Sydney Harbor. Alison’s place in Watson’s Bay is on South Head – the other side of the mouth. Did I mention that I was planning to stay in the hostel three nights, but Alison was one of the colleagues I was coming to see for a meeting on Thursday, and since she was going to Canberra to participate in the Australia 2020 summit, she offered me her apartment for the weekend. Right on the sea!

 

For those interested in politics, check out the website for the 2020 summit. The prime minister invited all Australians to participate in this summit for encouraging fresh thinking on Australian issues to plan for the future. 1000 Australians were chosen from among nominees by any citizen. And submissions of ideas and solutions were also solicited from all Australians. I think it is a pretty cool idea: http://www.australia2020.gov.au/.

 

Anyway, my little meeting in Manly went fine, and by the time it was over the rain seemed mostly over too. I decided to head out on the Manly Scenic Walk to the Spit Bridge along the shore and through nature reserves for about 9 kilometers (about 5.5 miles). I provisioned myself with sandwich, fruit and cookies and set out on what was, at first, a very tidy and well-manicured and paved walk. With the shore on my left and elite residences on my right, a soft and sunless light and cool but not chilly fresh sea air I happily began what was to be one of the greatest walks of my life. I was heading generally west, but the shoreline follows inlets, so just about the only direction I didn’t travel at some point was due east. After about two kilometers, the paved path gave way to jungle trail, which gave way to stony seashore (lucky for me it was low tide), which gave way to stony steps leading up into forest and scrub, which detoured to a few blocks on an inland street, then back to scrub forest way up high on the hill with spectacular views. The path followed inlets past waterfalls on wooden bridges, under huge rock overhangs, across sandy beaches, in the backyards of comfortable homes, across boardwalks over muddy spots. Every time I turned a corner I wanted to take another picture. You’ll see tons of them on the Flickr pages. I’ve also made a Google Map of my trip to Sydney with links to the relevant pictures at various points.

 

As I travelled, the sun came out, as did birds and bugs and frogs. I even saw a lizard of some sort (a goanna? – http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goanna), but my picture of him didn’t come out. This was one of the best walks/hikes I’ve ever endeavored. It is quite long and I didn’t really stop much. So 3.5 hours later, when I reached the Spit Bridge, I was pretty knackered. I can absolutely guarantee you that if you come visit me here, we will definitely spend a day on this Manly Scenic Walk. It is not to be missed. Ferry to Manly, out at the mouth of the harbour, hike to the Spit, bus back to Sydney. A perfect, perfect day!

 

So I caught the 169 bus from the southern end of the Spit Bridge and was at Wynard Park in downtown Sydney about 30 minutes later. It was a 20 minute walk from there through a few city blocks and across The Domain (park south of the Royal Botanic Gardens) and to the hostel for my bag. Then up a few block to where I’d had dinner the night before. Caught the bus within about 10 minutes, which drove up through King’s Cross, Double Bay and Rose Bay to drop me off a few houses from Alison’s place in Watson’s Bay. Ran off to the “Milk Bar” (i.e. convenience shop) where a couple of kids in their pajamas helped their father take my money for some vitals and back up the hill to settle in for supper and a cozy night with Astro – Alison’s beautiful, lovey and talkative kitty. (Boy it’s nice to have a soft fuzzy around – I miss Ernie, Bert and Trixie!)

 

I had plans to write this up last night, but I was completely beat from my day of walking pretty much nonstop from 8a to 6p. I think I fell asleep around 9p.

 

I woke up over 12 hours later! It’s been quite a while since I’ve slept that long. It was lovely though, and I eased slowly into the sunny day with a  nice cuppa tea looking out over the open sea from Alison’s front window. I did succumb to the temptation to check email and write up notes from the meeting, but by midday I was hoofing my way down to the wharf at Watson’s Bay to catch the ferry to Circular Quay. My objective? The Sydney Fish Markets. From the ferries I walked down George Street, which was pretty active, with lots of shops, and I got a good sense of downtown Sydney I think. Turned West on Market Street and over the Harbour Bridge, which crosses Darling Harbour, and down another bunch of blocks to the fish market.

 

The fish market building itself is quite large, so I expected something kind of like an indoor Haymarket. But it was only a dozen or so shops facing the harbour. I expect the rest of the building must be wholesale. Nevertheless, there were dozens of tables right on the water front and LOTS of fresh fish and seafood meals piled high on plates. I ended up skipping the lunch because I really wanted a fish sandwich and nobody offered that. Lots of other delicious sounding things, but you know what it’s like when you get your face all fixed for something? You just don’t want anything else. Besides, I’d gotten a late start and I still wanted to make it to the Aquarium in time to catch the last ferry back to Watson’s Bay at 6p.

 

So I headed back towards Darling Harbour and around the southern end by the convention center. I hope the pictures come out. (Sorry, I totally forgot to take pictures at the fish market).

 

The Aquarium was pretty cool. I thought it was a bit too dear (expensive) at A$ 29.50, and in the first few rooms of fish I felt a little ripped off and realized that I’m really not that much of a fish person. But it got better and better. There was a big seal tank that you could walk around with a  few seals hanging about and scratching themselves. I love seals anytime anywhere. But then you could go underneath an dthrough the tank in these giant tubes so you could see them swimming right up close (kind of like the tank at the New England Aquarium but better because the were swimming all around and over you).

 

The next exhibit was a similar experience – tubes underwater – but infinitely more dramatic – full of awe and amazement and jaw dropping fascination even. It was sharks and rays. So close, so beautiful. I mean less than 2 feet from the gnarly jaws of some very large sharks. Less than two feet from the soft white underbelly of a graceful floating 6 foot ray. Truly amazing experience and well worth the thirty bucks. The little penguins were terrifically cute – you could just sit and watch them for hours. And the final exhibit was the Great Barrier Reef. I didn’t expect to be impressed, but I definitely was. Some of the coral is just stunningly colorful. And the tank was huge and you can walk around it at all different angles. I’m definitely going to have to take scuba classes this year and get up there to the real thing. So it was absolutely money well spent.

 

On the ferry now and almost back to Watson’s Bay. And it’s raining and I don’t have a brolly or poncho. I guess I’ll just have to run fast up the hill. Then it’s dinner and posting this entry (and Thursday’s) and the photos.

 

I seriously think that I’m falling in love with Sydney. The water, the climate, the beautiful harbour, the sea, the city streets, the architecture, the vegetation, the birds, the cliffs, the waterfalls. From what I’ve seen so far, it really has got the best of so many things I love. Alright we’re arriving at Watson’s Bay. Time to make a dash through the rain…

 

17 April 2008

Puntino Trattoria

41 Crown Street

Wooloomooloo, NSW

 

Okay, I’ve just come from the Strand Hotel pub on William Street. I had a cranberry juice (A$ 3.40) and Vegetable Curry with steamed rice (A$ 8.95). The place was recommended by a guy in my room, who has apparently been at the hostel for three weeks. He said it was decent food for decent price. That was right I suppose. The curry was edible enough, though I doubt it would win any awards.

 

Now I am much more happily situated in a place called Puntino Trattoria, which is less pub-like and more bistro-like. It’s got a lovely little courtyard and upper terrace. The walls of the trattoria that face the courtyard are sliding glass doors, so the people sitting outside are actually right next to me, and I can see them, but I can’t hear them. In the back of the courtyard there is a set of steps leading up to a terrace of some sort. I can’t see from where I am how far it goes back. But it’s lit with festive Christmas lights and the people up there seem quite jovial. Ah, I’ve had a closer squizzy and it appears to be an upper level bar of some sort over the kitchen, which runs the width of the space in the rear. Let me see if I can sketch this out. [I did manage to make a sketch and will try to scan it when I get back to my office.]

 

Now I’m not a food critic/writer or gourmet by any means, but let me see if I can describe my dessert. When I came in I told the waitress that I just wanted a coffee and something sweet. She showed me the dessert menu and told me there was a special: a strawberry ricotta cheese cake with ice cream. There was also a chocolate cake that looked good so I asked what she would pick. I said I’d have that. So I now have in front of me a strawberry dessert that I’m not sure quite how to describe. Some of you gourmets out there will have proper words for some of these things no doubt. But even if I used the proper words, the rest of us wouldn’t know what I was talking about so I’m going to try to explain it in regular words.

 

When the plate arrives, I have a long low triangular slice with strawberry halves covering the top – red skin seed side up. They must have covered the whole circular dessert as the dappled strawberry covering is sliced on both sides where the piece is sliced – a sheer cut through cake and strawberries. There is a sprig of mint for colour, and taste/texture diversity as well I assume. It is slightly off-center on the short edge of the triangle. To the left of the slice (with point facing me) is a single scoop of vanilla ice cream (or gelato perhaps) nestled in a good-sized bed of some kind of strawberry puree (hmm, not quite puree – the strawberry bits are very visible). Without having tasted it, it looks like strawberry jam mixed with sour cream. I taste it, and it might actually be that, but it’s a little thicker than sour cream and not quite as sour. I suspect it is strawberry preserves mixed with what they call “cream” here. Hmm, how to describe that? “Cream” in Australia is something like a cross between cream cheese and sour cream in consistency and between cream cheese and vanilla yoghurt in taste. So then this strawberry goop is like preserves mixed with cream. But it isn’t quite as thick as cream regularly is. Perhaps you should imagine strawberry preserves mixed with cream cheese and a bit of heavy cream, or eggnog or a little condensed milk. Anyway, it is very tasty – too sweet to eat a dish of it alone but perfect as a bed for the gelato.

 

The “cheese cake” itself is definitely more “cake” than the creamy New York style cheesecake many of us Americans are used to. But I think that’s pretty right for ricotta cheese cake. It seems like it is soaked in something – almost like the consistency of bread pudding. And when I sink my spoon into it I discover that the strawberry slices are sitting on a light glaze on top of the ricotta cheese cake – much like the glaze that you often find in fruit tarts. I’m not usually a fan of that glaze, but it is light enough here that it is far from troublesome.

 

Over all, a lovely little suite of textures and flavours – warm almost bready cake, juicy sweet fresh strawberries, sweet creamy strawberry puree and cool gelato. It is quite delicious, but I want to make an important point here. Many of us have read and heard that we ought to eat more slowly and attentively. If you are one of those, like me, who have a hard time doing that, have I got a technique for you! Undertake to write about the food you are consuming *while* you are consuming it. The key is to not finish your dish before you are finished writing about it. I suspect that this strawberry ricotta cheese cake tasted even better since I took 30 minutes to eat it and tried to describe the experience as I went along. And with that, I savour my final bites.

 

[Author’s note: I subsequently met Max, the pastry chef who created this scrumptiously perfect “sweet” for me this evening. I commend him heartily on a job well done. And Max, if you would like to add a comment and elaborate in more precise and elegant terms on what you’ve created, I’m sure my more sophisticated readers will be delighted! And if you have an image of the dessert, please send it to me so I can link to it from here. I also met Tony, the owner, Bubbles (Gil) one of my waiters, and my lovely waitress, whose name I never learned. Thanks to all, and I do highly recommend the Puntino Trattoria on Crown Street in Woolloomooloo!]

 

It’s 10pm now – the time at which I might normally wash up and slip into bed for some solid read time before proper sleep time. But knowing that I’m sharing my room with five twenty-somethings and it is Friday night, perhaps I’ll stay out a bit longer. The Harbour City Backpacker Hostel is quite a large place – reminds me of the hostel I stayed in the first night in Budapest, where I lost my shoes and locked my roommate inside our room. That was kind of funny actually (though not for her). You see, when I checked in I was given a room with one other woman/girl and only one key, with no way to lock/unlock the door from the inside (only a chain). I don’t know what to say about the “one key” situation other than this was Budapest in the mid-90s? This was about 10pm and she was early to bed so was happy to have me take the key and lock the door, assuming I’d be back in the room by the time she awoke.

 

So I headed off into the wilds of this crazy hostel. I vaguely remember a loud bar and a crazy Bosnian with a guitar singing Turkish folk songs. Anyway, I’d made “friends” with another hostel resident and we somehow ended up getting friendlier on a couch in the hallway outside my room. I was roused by the sounds of a distant yet increasingly urgent female voice calling out, “Hello? Hello? Help. Can someone help me?” and banging and rattling. Somehow through the haze of a mostly unremembered evening, my sub-conscious recognized her voice, processed the banging, and yanked me to my feet, groping for the key and deeply embarrassed and apologetic – well, not entirely. I was still a little drunk and partially asleep, and as I called out to her “Coming. Sorry. Sorry.” I couldn’t suppress a smirk and giggle. She was not amused. At all. Too mousy to berate me, she simply glowered her most earnest glower and pushed past me towards the bathroom without a word.

 

That night I moved to a smaller hostel on the Buda side of the Danube, but without my brand new U$ 80 Ecco sandals, purchased from my sister who was, at the that time, a purveyor of comfortable shoes (e.g., Birkenstocks). I have no idea if my poor roommate stole them, or hid them, or threw them out the window. But I never made a fuss about it as I figured it was reasonable penance for locking a total stranger into a room.

 

But this is Sydney, more than a decade later. I’m twice the age of my roommates no doubt, but I don’t mind. I like hostels. When I only really need a place to sleep and wash up for a night or too, A$25 is the right price!

 

 

12 April 2008
My office
Acton (ANU), ACT

Foreshadowing: Where birds are, there are often other critters (bored of birds, skip to the end)

In the dark this morning, at 6am, about fourty people met up at ANU to do a bird survey of the area. About two-thirds of us were novices. We made up teams of three (two novices to one expert) and were given responsibility for listing all the birds in six distinct areas. My good buddy David McDonald picked us a choice spot way up in the Australian National Botanic Gardens (ANBC), knowing as he did that I’d spent the weekend before getting familiar with waterbirds down at the sewage works! The only drawback was that it was the furthest away and halfway up Black Mountain. Actually the effort to hike up there briskly was good because it was quite cold.

Apparently this was a very big deal to get permission to get into the ANBC so early (it doesn’t open til 8:30a). It was great to have the place to ourselves I have to say, and David was especially thrilled to have a chance to be in there at sunrise – perfect birding time. We were doing a 20-minute, 2 hectare survey. Each of the six spots was about 2 hectares (80meter radius) and we spent 20 minutes looking and listening for birds.

I’m sure many of you could care less about the birds I see (though I wouldn’t know it because NOBODY LEAVES COMMENTS…), but I do know that my new hobby has unearthed some closet birders from among my friends and colleagues, so this lists is for you (Hi Darcy!).

• Sulphur-crested Cockatoo
• Australian King-Parrot
• Crimson Rosella
• Laughing Kookaburra
• White-throated Treecreeper
• Superb Fairy-wren
• Spotted Pardalote
• White-browed Scrubwren
• Brown Thornbill
• Striated Thornbill
• Red Wattlebird
• Yellow-faced Honeyeater
• White-plumed Honeyeater
• New Holland Honeyeater
• Eastern Spinebill
• Golden Whistler
• Rufous Fantail
• Grey Fantail
• Australian Magpie
• Pied Currawong
• Australian Raven
• Red-browed Finch

Others that we observed while walking to and from the gardens included:
• Little Corella
• Gang-gang Cockatoo
• White-winged Chough
• Magpie-lark
• Noisy Miner

I’m tired of linking to the pictures – its time consuming and I’ve done it a couple of times already, so if you want to track down photos, try the Canberra Ornithologists Group (which I’ve just joined): http://photogallery.canberrabirds.org.au or Google them (http://www.google.com).

Okay, the other big news of the day…? WALLABIES!! Our first location was way high up on the side of the mountain in the bush and brittle gum trees and we came across a family of beautiful grey kangaroos (poppa, momma and junior). And I saw my first wallaby! David identified it as a swamp wallaby. It is smaller than a kangaroo, with mostly dark brown fur, but terrifically deep red fur around his face and head and paws. Let me find an image. Okay, here’s one… Ooops, no sorry. Try this one – though not quite as red as the one I saw. Ah heck, why don’t I just give you the link to the Google images search: (if you’ve never used it before, just click on the image and then click on the image at the top of the next page to get the full sized image).

Now I completely forgot to give you some movie reviews of other things I saw last weekend. Away from Her was a really magnificent presentation of the depth and complexity of true love. Julie Christie is fantastic as the wife edging slowly into Alzheimer’s. I also saw Juno – a delightful romp through teen pregnancy with some fun characters.

Last night’s movie does not really deserve a review. Fool’s Gold was a silly romantic comedy about treasure hunting in the Carribbean – with goofy gangsta rappers, Ukrainian scuba divers, and Donald Sutherland (???). Apparently this weekend is the opposite of last week’s quality film line-up. I am now going to see Jumper – a time-travel action film? Heh, heh, heh… well, it’s good to distract myself sometimes. [Editor's Note on 13 April: Do not waste your time on this film.]

Cheers,
Caryn

10 April 2008
My office
Acton (ANU), ACT

Last Wednesday I joined the ANU Choral Society (known as SCUNA – reverse acronym pronounced like scuba). Last night was my second rehearsal and I’m so so happy to be singing again – albeit that I’m VERY rusty.

We are singing Carl Orff’s Carmina Burana and will be performing with the Canberra Symphony Orchestra on 6 June with a variety of other Canberra choral groups, AND singing it on stage at the Sydney Opera House on the 21st of June. Can you stand it? I’ve been in this country two months and already I’ve got an opportunity to be on stage at perhaps the most well-known opera house in the world. This country is so small (people-wise).

I sang quite a lot when I was younger but it has been a long time. Last week was quite a shock to me in realizing how long it has been since I read music – it was hard! And I wasn’t very good at it. But I’ve downloaded the recording from iTunes (the Boston Symphony Orchestra recording of course) and have been practicing. However, I’ve got another problem. For the past two weeks I’ve been singing alto and I’ve become convinced that I really need to be singing tenor. Even second alto is just too high for me. So now I’ve got to re-learn. Another challenge has been the language. My past choral experience of singing in Latin has been primarily Italian, but this is German Latin with a whole bunch of unfamiliar pronunciations.

I’m very happy to be singing again. There are about 100 people in the choir and many are just people like me who like to sing this type of stuff (no auditions required). I even love the note-bashing – going over and over the same few bars until everyone gets it.

Unfortunately no rehearsal next week, but next month we are having a “camp” where we will sing all weekend. That should be fun.

Doing an official bird survey with David this Saturday. Have to be on site at 6am – aaggghh!! Will report afterwards.

Cheers – Caryn

5 April 2008
Jerrabomberra Wetlands
Kingston, ACT

Okay, first of all, let me clarify some pronunciation things. It is CAN-burr-ah (like WASH-ing-ton). And it is JERR-ah-BAHM-burr-ah (like HOH-lee WAH-ter burds… BAT-man).

8am this morning I am down by the banks of Lake Burley Griffin with about eight other bundled-up bird nuts on bikes, led by Mad Martin, our fearless birdmaster, peddling madly off to the Jerrabomberra Wetlands for some high volume bird-spotting.

I was going to write all this up, but I actually made up a map instead. Go to my special map and click on the markers to see the lists of birds I saw with links to their pictures:

Summary of the route:

  • Start at top left of the map, right under the “C” of Canberra. The rest of these list what we did and the birds we spotted (not including the many magpies, magpie larks, pied currowongs, etc. and many of the common water birds like purple swamphens, moor hens and wood ducks were seen throughout.
  • Heading East on the North shore of Lake Burley Griffin
  • Spot – Teenaged Darter bird near lake edge, Silver Gulls around
  • Turn in towards inlet and walk up into trees a short way
  • Spot – Colony of fruit bats nesting in trees, water birds in inlet like Dusky Moor Hens, Wood Ducks, Australasian Pacific Black Ducks (very elegant look)
  • Continue East on North shore to Carillion (large bell tower on small island)
  • Spot – Red-rumped Parrots (brilliant color!), Masked Laprings, Willy Wagtail
  • Cross King’s Ave Bridge and continue East on South shore of lake
  • Spot – Black Swan with four fuzzy grey chicks (too cute)
  • Travel up Wentworth Ave and left on The Causeway and back around behind the apartment buildings to a small man-made wetland
  • Spot – Straw-necked Ibis, Reed Warbler, Welcome Swallows, White-faced Heron
  • Up Newcastle Street to entrance to the Jerrabomberra Wetlands and the first “hide” (small little building with narrow horizontal strip opening through which to observe the water birds without being seen)
  • Spot – not much in this first place, some Wood Ducks, a Superb Fairy-Wren and a large flock fo Straw-necked Ibis flying over
  • Through Wetlands on trail to next “hide” overlooking Kelly’s pond
  • Spot – lots of ducks, mother feeding baby Moor Hens, Wood Ducks, Pacific Black Ducks, White-faced Heron, Intermediate Egret
  • Move south to “hide” #3 a little further south on Kelly’s pond
  • Spot – Pelicans, Australian Shelduck (beautiful!), Australian Shovelers (funny wide beaks and bright orange feet), scrub wren on the path
  • South on Dairy road and East into grounds of the Fyshwick Sewerage works (a.k.a. the poo pits) – about four small ponds with a riot of water birds
  • Spot – Wood ducks, Australian Grebes, Hoary-headed Grebes, Musk Duck (got Martin very excited), Coots, Moor Hens, Blue-Billed ducks (amazing bright blue beaks – no kidding), and even saw a Little Eagle soaring in the skies above (just added to endangered species list).
  • Back north on Dairy Road and cross over the Monglolo River and head West on the north side of the river
  • Spot – half dozen Darter birds of various ages (teenager-grey, female-light brown/grey, male – black: gorgeous and elegant all)
  • Back west on the north shore of the lake

So check out my special map and click on the blue markers to see the lists of birds. Don’t forget you can click on “satellite” to get a view of the real land (and you can actually see the “hides” that we were viewing from).

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